Sydney based Tilly Parkins is arguably one of the strongest women boulderers in the world. Tilly has racked up numerous double digit boulder problems including the classic Forced Entry V12 in the Grampians, Victoria (pictured). Having said that, don’t dismiss Tilly for being “merely” a pebble wrestler! She also brings the goods on a rope, sending routes in the top end of the 20s spectrum. This summer Tilly has plans to don the rope once more and send some projects: Alpha Leather 32 and Self Portrait 29. On top of all this Tilly works full time as a cardiac technologist (meaning she does stuff with people’s hearts…) Inspiring hey?!
STS: So you live in Sydney, where do you train?
TP: The Pitch Climbing Centre, in Wetherill Park. The best indoor bouldering around!
STS: How often do you train?
TP: I try to train 2 to 3 times a week and get out on rock over the weekend. I'd train every day if the old body would let me...
STS: And what type of training gets you so massive? (so to speak!)
TP: I'm really psyched on power training at the moment. Short, hard and loads of fun! And perfectly suited to someone with a short attention span, like me.
STS: What’s your favourite crag?
TP: I love our annual jaunts to the Grampians in Victoria. There is such a high density of amazing quality problems in a huge variety of styles. At the moment I have a bunch of projects at Hollow Mountain Cave that I need to find some time to get back to.
STS: Yeah the Grampians are awesome! Do you mind telling us a bit about what it was like to climb Forced Entry?
TP: Forced Entry grabbed my attention years ago, when V12 was an inconceivable grade to me. I distinctly remember looking at it and thinking how well it suited me… if only I was strong enough. So, fast forward a few years and with some good old-fashioned training under my belt I went back and started working the moves. The problem took a bit of working out as I found there were some incredible subtleties in foot placements (½ inch to the right, the problem was impossible, ½ inch to the left and a move would go…), but once I started putting it together, I was coming off the last move within a few days of working it. Unfortunately it has a wicked mono in it, that destroyed my finger and by the end of that trip, I was unable to pull back through the mono move (I think I could see tendon?). So reluctantly, I headed back home, healed my wounds and trained some very specific strengths that I knew would help when I returned. My partner and I did a fly in, fly out trip a month later and I sent it on my first day there. It was such an amazing feeling sticking the move that had eluded me and then trying to keep it together for the (usually) embarrassingly easy mantle. Of course, in true Tilly fashion, there was about 5 minutes of elation before I started thinking about what I could work next…
STS: Ok so now let’s get all zen… why do you climb?
TP: Honestly, I know no other way. It sounds sooooo cheesy, but it's who I am, it's what I am and it's what I love to do. It's challenging, it's rewarding, it's heartbreaking and it's something to look forward to - every day.
STS: What inspires you?
TP: I guess it's the same whether you're a climber or a boulderer - I beautiful line. Mix that with some spectacular scenery and a bunch of your mates and I think that's why we keep on getting out there week after week.
STS: Who inspires you?
TP: I'm actually most inspired at the moment by a bunch of new talent we have coming through the gym. Some of these guys have been climbing for just over a year and their talent and raw motivation blows me away. They'll still be cheering each other on for hours after my skin has sent me home. I'd like to know how to harness that kind of tenacity...
STS: Ok so now for some really climbing related questions! What’s your favourite book?
TP: Nelson De Mille - Plum Island & Lion's Game. Great reads and I'm a huge fan of the lead character. If they could make a movie with George Clooney, I'd be a happy, happy lass...
STS: George Clooney hey? Right… and your favourite band?
TP: I really like the work of Aussie talent, Paul Mac. I'm also keen on Jeff Buckley and Bic Runga. Other than that I spend my time listening to mash-ups, MOS and other music that makes training sessions a bit more... lively.
STS: Cool, thanks Tilly!
Tilly Parkins recently returned from a trip to the USA where she visited the sanctified boulder fields of Bishop, California. Sitting under the majestic peaks of the Sierra Nevada, the boulders of the Buttermilks provide a Mecca for climbers the world over.
Whilst there Tilly sent Stained Glass V10, reaffirming beyond shadow of a doubt that she is one of the strongest women in Australian climbing, if not the world!
